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Questions and answers are provided courtesy of the veterinarians of Gentle Doctor Animal Hospital in O'Fallon Missouri. Gentle Doctor provides veterinary services to the Pet Adoption Center under a contract with the county. If you have a question that you don't see already answered below, please feel free to ask our experts. If your question is of general interest it will be added to the ongoing list. Remember, it is very important to establish an ongoing doctor-patient relationship for your pet with a licensed veterinarian. In that way you will have access to veterinary service and advice at any time. For a list of veterinary practices in St. Charles County click here.


Question:
How does a dog get heartworms and how do I know if they have it?


Answer:
Canine Heartworm is a bloodborne disease. Mosquitoes feeding on an infected animal pass the infection to other animals that they bite. One bite from an infected mosquito can pass the infection on to your pet. Your veterinarian can test your pet for this deadly parasite and tell you how to protect against it.


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Question:
What causes hot spots on my dog?


Answer:
"Hot Spots" are a self-induced moist dermatitis from trauma when your dog bites and scratches itself in an attempt to alleviate pain or itching. Most cases are from an allergic reaction to flea saliva injected during a bite. Dog breeds particularly susceptible are those with a dense undercoat such as Golden and Labrador Retrievers, Collies, Akitas, Chows, and German Sherpards. The problem is much more common in hot, humid weather and may be related to poor ventilation of the haircoat.

If your pet is suffering from hot spots we would recommend that you visit the veterinarian that you normally go to for regular care or that you establish an ongoing relationship with a veternarian in your area.


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Question:
Does spaying/neutering make a pet fat and lazy?


Answer:
Spaying/neutering does not make your pet lazy or fat. Lack of exercise and too much food causes pets to get fat and lazy. Altered animals tend to expend less energy because they roam less, and their food intake may need to be adjusted accordingly.


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Question:
Is there a wrong way to put a choke chain on a dog?


Answer:
Yes! The correct way is to put the collar in front of the dog so it looks like a horizontal "P". When used in this manner, pulling on the leash will cause the collar to tighten. When you relax the leash, the collar loosens. If placed on your dog incorrectly, the collar may not automatically loosen when you relax the leash. You may want to consider a halter type collar on dogs that tend to pull on their leashes, while wearing a choke collar, in order to prevent injury to the dog.


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Question:
Is chocolate poisonous to dogs and cats?


Answer:
Chocolate related poisonings is one of the most common poisonings seen in veterinary clinics, especially around the holidays. The lethal ingredient, theobromine, is 10 times stronger in baking chocolate than it is in milk chocolate. Since the effects of chocolate poisoning are heart arrhythmias and may not be apparent right away, it is important you contact your veterinarian or emergency clinic right away.


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Question:
My pet has fleas, how do I get rid of them?


Answer:
Controlling and eliminating an already existing flea problem takes a lot of time and effort. The best way to rid your pet of fleas is to see a veterinarian, and follow his instructions closely. A successful flea control program requires treating the indoor and outdoor environment of your pet as well as the pet itself.
There are 4 stages to the flea life cycle: eggs, larvae, pupae (cocoons), and adults. The adult fleas are the only stage of the lifecycle that feeds on the dog or cat. The eggs, larvae, and cocoons are present in the pet's environment. Since only 5% of the fleas are adults, MOST of the flea problem is in the pet's environment. Therefore, it is important that both the pet(s) and the pets' environment be treated for fleas.
When treating the house it is important to use a product that kills flea eggs. Products that kill the flea eggs will have one of the following three ingredients in the "active ingredients" list on the back of the label:
  1. Methoprene
  2. Fenoxycarb
  3. Pyriproxyfen
If one of these three is not in the active ingredients, then the product does not kill the flea eggs and is not recommended.

IMPORTANT POINTS IN SPRAYING THE HOUSE, YARD, AND PET:
  1. Vacuum Before Spraying: Vacuum carpets, rugs, and upholstery PRIOR to spraying; throw the vacuum bag away immediately after vacuuming. Mop floor surfaces and wash pet's bedding. Control measures such as these can significantly reduce the population of flea eggs and larvae before application of insecticides. Also, vibrations from the vacuum stimulate many fleas to hatch from their cocoons. Since no insecticides can kill cocoons, vacuuming helps to kill fleas by stimulating many of the fleas out of the cocoon stage.
  2. Fogging versus Spraying: If foggers are used in the house instead of sprays, the home should be spot sprayed where the fogger does not reach. This includes areas underneath furniture such as sofas, chairs, tables, underneath cushions, etc. Even though your pet may not be able to get underneath sofas or other furniture, these are hotspots for fleas because the fleas' larvae like to be in dark areas.
  3. 3. Be thorough when you spray:
    1. Indoors: Spray carpeting, rugs, furniture (including underneath cushions), baseboards, along walls, hardwood floors, pet's bedding; spray the entire house. FOLLOW ALL LABEL INSTRUCTIONS.
    2. Outdoors: Spray the yard for fleas if your pet spends more than 5% of its time outdoors. Remove piles of leaves, grass clippings or other organic debris before spraying. Mow the lawn prior to spraying. Spray any areas that are shaded or partially shaded (e.g.- under decks, shrubbery, bushes, under trees, in dog houses). Fleas do not like direct sunlight. FOLLOW ALL LABEL INSTRUCTIONS.
  4. The "Pupal Window Effect": Indoor treatment must take into consideration the "pupal window effect". While in the pupal stage, fleas are resistant to all insecticides. The fleas will hatch from the pupae during the 4 weeks after spraying. If the insecticide used in spraying the house has a residual activity of more than (>4) weeks, then the emerging pupae will be killed. However, it takes approximately 2 days after the pupae hatch before the adults die from the residual insecticide. Thus, these fleas may be seen on your pet up to 4 weeks after the house is sprayed. This is NOT from an ineffective flea treatment; this is a NORMAL phenomenon and should be expected. To kill the fleas emerging from the cocoons faster, a second spraying of the house is recommended two weeks after the first house treatment.
  5. Treating the Pets: Use "Sentinel" or "Program" monthly (given by mouth) for prevention of fleas. Also, use "Frontline" to kill fleas that are on your pet. Treat the pet on the SAME DAY that the house and/or yard are treated for fleas. Use a flea comb after they are bathed and dipped for fleas and each time they are sprayed for fleas. If your pet has long hair, have the groomer shave the hair shorter prior to treating your pet for fleas; this enables insecticides to reach the skin (where the fleas live) and also facilitates use of the flea comb.


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Question:
How do I stop my cat from scratching the furniture?


Answer:
You cannot stop a cat from scratching completely, so you need to teach it to scratch only things that you want it to. A scratching post or strategically placed pieces of carpet will give your cat an alternative place to scratch. You might try spraying the targeted areas with catnip or keep a catnip toy nearby. Use an enzyme cleaner to eliminate the cats scent from the areas you want to stop the cat from scratching.


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Question:
What kind of food should I feed my dog/cat?


Answer:
Cats and dogs are living longer lives today, due in part to completely balanced, high quality foods that we find in the grocery stores, pet stores, and veterinary offices today. The standards for nutrient levels in pet food have been established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). The standards include recommendations on protein, fat, fat soluble vitamins, water soluble vitamins, and mineral content. Do not feed cat food to a dog, nor dog food to a cat because their nutrient needs are very different. Consult with your veterinarian about specific dietary needs for your pet if you suspect it is overweight, underweight, or not eating right.


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Question:
If I become pregnant, do I have to get rid of my cat?


Answer:
No, it is not necessary to get rid of a cat because its owner is pregnant. Care should be taken to prevent exposure to Toxoplasma, a disease associated with the handling and consumption of undercooked or raw meat from infected animals, and cats. Of all animals infected, cats are the perfect host for the production of the infectious and resistant Toxoplasman oocysts. The oocysts are released from the cat in its feces. Because the oocysts are not infectious immediately, the risk of infection can be greatly reduced with minimal preventative measures. Avoid changing the litter box if possible. If you must change it, use rubber gloves. Change the litter box daily, dispose of the litter in a sealed plastic bag, and always wash your hands with soap and water when finished. Try not to raise a lot of dust from the litter as it is changed. Since most cats clean themselves constantly, it is unlikely for them to leave feces on their fur, and it is unlikely that humans will become infected by handling the cat.


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Question:
How do I introduce a new cat to my household that already has a cat?


Answer:
First, be sure the new cat has been tested negative for Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV). The key to introducing a new pet is to go slow! Put the new cat in her own room for about a week, this way the two cats can sniff each other under the door. After a week or so, put your cat in the new cats room and let the new cat roam the house. The next step is to let them see each other from across the room or through a tall baby gate you put across the doorway of the new cats room. When they become used to this, let the cats out together SUPERVISED. Do not let them together unsupervised, as they could fight and hurt each other. The entire process will probably take about 4 weeks, and even then they might not be buddies but can be in the same room without fighting. Good luck, and remember - patience.


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